Here is the hardware I use to wire a standard, washer-top cloth or fabric lamp shade on one of my lamps, which the industry calls "down lights" because they point down.

On the left is the swivel, which has a female 1/8 IP thread on the end. It is threaded into a"neck", the piece with beaded knurling on the end, out of which protruded the lamp cord. I don't normally supply the neck with my glass- or European-shades but you can get one from me or a lamp store. It is a "1/8 IP threaded neck" You need it to have room to screw in the steel nipple, attached here to the socket base, that will sandwich the shade's washer top.

The three parts of the porcelain base are, Right to Left, the porcelain shell, the fiber washer and the metal base. You could also use a brass socket, with its own turn- or pull-switch, but in either case, you need a 1/8IP nipple long enough to tighten the shade between socket base and threaded neck before you attach any wires.

Here I'm all set to tighten the socket base through the washer-top shade, into the threaded neck.

I've put a brass washer around the nipple, where it threads into the socket base, to give more support to the shade, but if the shade's washer top is properly sized, you don't necessarily need such washer. They are available from me or from a lamp store as a "1/8IP threaded washer".

This next step is key to a sturdy installation.

You need to tighten the socket base against the shade as much as you can. Grab the lamp's swivel or threaded neck with pliers and, with a pair of slip-joint pliers wide enough to span the base, tighten this assembly.

Ok, the base is tightened and the insulating fiber washer is fitted over the holes for the base attachment scews.

Now you much properly polarize the electrical connection, Note:

The base has a silver screw and a brass-colored screw. (this will be true of all kinds of bases). The wire insulation has a smooth side and a side with two or more low ridges running lengthwise. Look closely in good light, or run a fingernail crosswise on each side to feel for the ridges.

DO NOT PROCEED UNTIL YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED THE RIDGED SIDE OF THE INSULATION! If you get this next part reversed, the lamp will illuminate but someone changing a light-bulb may get a nasty electrical shock!

ATTACH THE WIRE EMERGING FROM THE RIDGED SIDE TO THE SILVER SCREW AND THE WIRE FROM THE SMOOTH SIDE TO THE GOLD SCREW.

Only the socket's center contact can now be "hot"

Whew!

Now, line the base attachment screws up with the holes in the socket base (you may want to look from above the shade to line them up), and tighten one of the screws a few turns to feel if it has begun to engage the base threads. Don't tighten it down, yet, try to tighten the other screw, diddling around with the base and s

crewdriver until you have both screws started. Then tighten them both.

Finally, now that you have something you can grab with your hand, tighten the socket a bit more against the shade. If you did a good job tightening the base, you shouldn't be able to get more than another half-turn on the base. Remember, you went through all this technique to avoid twisting the lamp cord inside the lamp, don't do it now!

If you chose a brass-shell switched socket, you now have a lamp whose shade doesn't hang on the socket in such a way that it can loosen up and expose the wires.

If you have any questions, call me at 860 974 2032